![]() I dare say that despite its size designation, the ID also is not 1/8 inch. So the outside dimension of a NPT 1/8 inch nipple is actually. This because they are not the size they are named. It was complex for me using inches my whole life, so it is an additional complication for someone in the metric world. I note that you mention the jet pipe as 1/4 inch. most of the articles I've read on it show it working very well just as shown in the above drawing. I think many who use the 3/4 mixing tube and a 3/4 to 1.5 reducer as the intake, have a means of choking the intake are to tune the burner. since this is seen as an improvement, over the original which strapped it to the exterior, there is enough free space around the jet pipe to allow air. presumably as close fitting to the 1/8 inch nipple you use for the jet pipe, so it dictates where the jet will sit. Good luck, have fun, and stay safeĬopesy, I didn't mean to say I knew the exact measurement for the placement of the jet, but that if you do the Bordeaux modification you drill the mounting hole just inside the thick rim of the big end of the reducer. I hope that detail helps you chase down the right answers. I am still tweaking mine to work optimally, but based on a lot of reading I completed prior to this fabrication, the experts show an expansion on the south end of the burner to create a Venturi effect. What I am illustrating is the concept and not an optimal design. The black indicate male.Ī I am brand new to these builds and have only built one dual burner. But if you look at the flare on the end, you can see an example of going from a 3/4” nipple to a 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” flare. ![]() I just built this and it is my first burner. I am not suggesting you use this as your model. I know there are expert level burner makers on this forum, but I wanted to share what I saw. The flame exits on the 1 1/4” outlet and that expansion is what is necessary for the effect to create pressure and extend the flame out the end. So if that nipple is 3/4” (sorry for imperial, but I am US), you want the reducer turned around to go from 3/4” nipple to a 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” outlet. If you use this model and compare to your design, the end flare is what I think you are missing. ![]() I will find a pic and post of what I am describing By reducing, I believe it will constrict, but what you want is to constrict and then expand so it will pull air from the top. I am also new, but the Venturi design requires the end to flare and not reduce. The range jetted for Butane actually seems to give the best results when running on Propane in forges (without a secondary air supply). The best advice I can give is to google, and buy, a Long-Venturi "Amal atmospheric injector" (usual disclaimer: I have no affiliation to them other than as a satisfied customer). ANY deviation from the documented design, however trivial, means that you have redesigned the burner and that you will need to make your new design work: not a problem if you understand burners, but the learning curve is steep and tends to be expensive in either time, money or both. The majority of the documented designs are for US fittings, making sourcing them in the UK a minor nightmare. You need to build EXACTLY to a "known good" burner design. 0-4 bar is overkill, but works and may be easier to find.ĭo not buy a 0.5-4 bar regulator: the lack of control at the bottom end makes it truly horrible to use once lit and unnecessarily exciting to light. Make sure it goes down to zero. Again, these use a fixed-low-pressure regulator, 37 mbar for Propane, and are no use to us) and an adjustable regulator to suit. You NEED a Propane cylinder with a screw-in connection (there are also clip-on cylinders like the Butane ones. The "this" link in your post seems to return to this thread.īutane regulators are, to the best of my knowledge, 28 mbar fixed-pressure in the UK. Best to wait until you have the correct reducer though. 2/ Yes, but only because you are using Butane (I assume that's 0 degC, 32 degF?)Ĥ/ Probably: it certainly won't help.
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